Mawa Cakes

I have been craving Mawa cakes for some time and so decided to recreate them in sunny Goa. My introduction to Mava Cakes happened when I lived in Mumbai, while doing my undergraduate studies at St. Xavier’s College near Dhobi Talao. We students spent as much time in Bastani and its equally old rival, Kyani & Co. as in our college canteen. Their distinct old-world charm - the high ceilings, dusty chandeliers, slowly turning ceiling fans, ubiquitous antique wall clock, quirky instructions and posters on the crumbling walls, chequered table cloth and the endearingly eccentric people who run it made the delicious  and cheap food they served even more enjoyable . 

Baking was brought to Bombay by the Portuguese before it was gifted to the British as dowry, with the technique of yeast bread or the pau as we know it. Initially it was to supply the army the army with sustenance. The demand for the pau and the bakeries further grew as the British took over and early migration began. Over time the Iranis capitalized on this demand and by 1901, there were 1400 bakeries, according to The Gazetteer.The Irani migrants took the business a step ahead and started restaurants which sold their bakery products as well as non-vegetarian dishes. Slowly, each Irani restaurant developed its own culinary specialities. Britannia in Ballard Estate became famous for its Berry Pulao; Sassanian Boulangerie at Dhobi Talao for its Parsi food. Kyani & Co for its bakery products; New Excelsior café for its kheema-pau; and B. Merwan for its classic Mawa Cake.

These soft, buttery, cardamom-infused cupcakes are a classic tea time delicacy.  Sold rolled in wax paper, they have been a menu staple at Irani cafés and bakeries from the time they opened in Bombay and Pune in the late 19th and early 20th centuries This tea time cake is moist and light, but gets an intense, caramelized flavor from the Mawa or Khoya an ingredient available at dairies and sweet marts in India.  Spiced with cardamom and topped with cashewnuts, this classic cake will make a delightful addition to you next tea party.

For the Mawa Cakes

Ingredients

1 1/4 cups all purpose flour

1/2 teaspoon baking powder

1/4 teaspoon cardamom powder

100gm mawa, at room temperature

6 tablespoons butter, at room temperature

1 cup sugar

2 eggs

6 tablespoons whole milk

Pinch of salt

Cashewnut halves (optional)

Method

Preheat the oven to 180 degrees Celsius and position a rack in the middle. Lightly brush with melted butter small  muffin tins or use cupcake liners instead. Set aside.

In a large bowl, mix together the dry ingredients i.e. the flour, baking powder, cardamom and salt. In another bowl, beat together the mawa, butter and sugar until light and fluffy. Add the eggs, one at a time and beating well after each addition. Fold in the reserved flour mixture and the milk. Divide evenly among the prepared cake tins, top each with a cashew half if using and bake for 20-25minutes. Serve warm with a hot cup of chai.

For a Goan spin on this recipe, I add 1/4 cup coarsely ground toasted cashew nuts to the recipe for that pop of goan flavor. Of course this isn't a traditional goan recipe, but I know it’s sure to put a smile on the faces of the many Goans who have lived around Dhobi Talao and Marine lines, and remember those lazy mornings in the Irani cafes, sipping tea, eating cake and reading the morning newspaper. Bliss!